Textile Glossary

Grading

Definition

Grading is the process of deriving smaller and larger sizes from a specific model size (base size). This base size is defined individually by each company. In women's outerwear (DOB), the standard base sizes used for grading with grade increments are sizes 34, 36, or 38; in men's and boys' outerwear (HAKA), sizes 48 or 50 are used. These sizes also serve as sample sizes.

Use in the textile industry

In industrial garment manufacturing, grading is used to generate a complete size range from a single pattern without reconstructing each size individually. It is applied in both manual pattern work and CAD-based systems, with grading rules varying depending on the product segment and the target body measurement chart. The goal is a dimensionally accurate and proportionally correct transfer of the pattern shape across all sizes.

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Frequently asked question

Drafting involves developing a pattern from scratch based on body measurements and construction rules, whereas grading transfers an existing pattern to other sizes by scaling it according to defined grade increments. Grading therefore always requires a completed base pattern and does not alter its fundamental shape — it scales defined measurement points and seam lines by specified increment values. Both methods can be performed manually or with computer-aided systems.

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